Boštjan invited me to join him on a trip to Senegal. As we didn’t make it 15 years ago I said yes. We got cheap tickets for one week. Soon plan expanded to Gambia and Guinea Bissau. Even though I am fond of fast movement this was a lot for me. But I had already bought a ticket, got my vacation (mid-week), got vaccinated for yellow fever (60€), bought antimalarials (80€) and there was no turning back. We made a reservation for a few nights in advance and that was it. Below you will find details about what we experienced from daily recap to individual categories like transport, food, costs, …

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Daily review

People

Boštjan I have known for almost 20 years and in that time we had a few interesting trips so far. During these years we got old, I am snoring and he is farting but we still manage somehow. We are both fans of quick movement on trips, maybe he is a bit too speedy for me. We survived yet another adventure together.

In countries we visited (Senegal, Gambia, Guinea Bissau; West Africa, Sahel, Sub-Sahara) people are dominantly Muslim and of black race. In Senegal, they speak French, in Gambia English, in Guinea Bissau Portuguese. But with French, you would be able to communicate in all 3 countries. My French is bad and Boštjan’s is basic, but we managed. Besides the language barrier we moved quickly so there were no longer conversations with others. Some short ones (soldier on the van, older man on the border, owner of the hotel, manager of fast food, …). In general, people are nice.

Transport

Transport was this time to big part of the trip. I prefer it to be one-third but here was around half of the time, Boštjan was planning.

Flight

We flew with Iberia (Venice-Madrid-Dakar and back) for 330 €, 15 hours of flying, and 11 hours in airports. Flight was cheap but service was basic on flights. We changed seats for better leg space. Airport Marco Polo in Venice is OK, not too big, close to the city (bus, boat). Barajas in Madrid is a big airport, not too close to the city (metro not too early), I used a lounge there. Blaise Diagne in Dakar is a medium airport far from the city (taxi, train in future).

Train and metro

We used a train in Dakar towards the airport. In Bargny suburbs we went off the train. The ticket was 1500 XOF=2.3€, cheap, new but crowded. Metro in Madrid was not operational at 4am.

Taxi/Car

As the first move on this trip, I took a taxi to the main bus station in Ljubljana, for 8 €.

In Senegal, we took a taxi the first night from the airport for 30 €, 1 hour. From the safari, we hitchhiked to the border.

In Gambia, from Banjul to accommodation taxi was 7€ for 15 km.

In Guinea Bissau, the taxi from the station was 3 € and the next morning back it was the same.

In Dakar, we took on return a taxi twice, for 7.5 €. The next day we took a taxi to the port, 4.5 €. The last taxi was to the airport for 20 €.

Sister picked me up at the main bus station and that was my last ride on this trip.

Bus/Van

We used GoOpti to get to Marco Polo airport in Venice, 54€ for a return ticket. The drive lasted around 2.5 hours. We got picked up at 5am in the morning at the main bus station and on return, we waited a bit for pickup at parking lot P5.

In Venice, we took a bus from the airport to the city and back, one way 10 €, 35 minutes.

From Dakar toward Banjul, we moved by bus, 3h, 18€.

The shared taxi from the north border in Gambia to Barra was 1 €. The next morning four shared taxis to the south border (0,3 €, 0,8 €, 0,7 €, 0,5 €).

From the border to Ziguinchor shared taxi was 7,5 €. From Ziguinchor to Bissau shared taxi was 6,8 €. The shared taxi back was 6 €.

Boat

Ferry across Gambia river Barra to Banjul, 35 GMD=0.5€, 35 minutes ride. You buy a ticket and then wait in a fenced area where they have expensive drinks.

Ferry Cosama between Ziguinchor to Dakar, 29 € for a 15-hour overnight trip, in a cabin with 8 berths. It was nice until the cabin was full. You had a restaurant, bar, terrace, shower, and toilet (shared) on board.

The last ferry was to Goree Island from Dakar. 9€ for the return ticket+tax, the ride was 20 minutes one way.

Walking

To see cities we walked around, it was hot, hotter in the south. The quality of the air is horrible (sand, old cars, traffic, …). Also, the infrastructure is bad, there are no sidewalks just sand or dirt and you have to watch yourself while walking or crossing roads.

Altogether we walked almost 90km in 9 days, the biggest walk was in Dakar where we passed 18km in a day. There were also 200 steps to the monument that day.

Accommodation

We used booking to find cheap and nice spots in locations close to our next point of interest. We paid from 20 to 37 € for both. First night in Dakar we paid for a room with a private bedroom and shared kitchen 30€ at Casa Djoko, simple breakfast included. In Gambia, we were in Serrekunda at Sarawally Guesthouse, 20€. In Ziguinchor a room at Ker Adja was 35 €. In Bissau, we stayed at Casa Cacheu Guest House for 30 €. The second night in Ziguinchor we stayed in Camping Casamance for 28 €. We slept one night on a ferry (29 €). Back in Dakar, we stayed at Fadidi house for 37 €. Last night we were at airports and on an airplane. Altogether was 180 € for 8 nights we were away, 22,5 € per night, that is 11.25 € per night per person.

Food and drinks

I took from home two sandwiches (which lasted until the next morning), a few tangerines (which lasted for days), and a bottle of water (which I brought home).

At Madrid airport we went to McDonald’s – the menu with beer was 10 €. On the second flight, we got a meal and beer.

In Dakar, we had breakfast at accommodation (bread, butter, jam, coffee).

CocaCola in Banjul was 0,7€. In Serrekunda we had dinner for 18 €. I ate okra, beef, and a steamed bun (not good). The next morning we had an omelet for breakfast included in the room price.

Two burgers in Ziguinchor were 4.5 €. The beer at the gas station was 1.2 € and in night bar was 2.4 €. The next morning we had cookies and coffee for breakfast. At the gas station, we bought beer and water, 3,3 €. The coke at the station was 0,6 €.

In Bissau, draft beer was 2.3 €. Dinner for both with drinks was 23 € (grilled squid, prawns, soup, beer). Ice cream was expensive, 2.5 € for a scoop. Later we went for finger food and beer, 6,8 €.

We repeated ourselves, two burgers in Ziguinchor were 4.1 € and the beer at the gas station was 1.2 €. Later beer at camp was 3€. We paid 4 € in the shop for cookies and water, beer was 0.9 €. Dinner (beef steak and fries) on a ferry with a drink was 9 €.

Back in Dakar, we ate a sandwich with egg and fries for 1,2€, shwarma for 3 €, and fish with rice for dinner was 6€. That day we drunk water 0,6 €, coffee 0,15 €, coke 0.5 €, beer 1 €. The next morning we had breakfast at the place we stayed at. Later we ate croissants for 0,75 €. In a shop, we spent 3 €. In port burger was 2.3 €. Bananas at the local market were 0,75 €. Djolof fast food was expensive, 10€ for a menu plus one meal.

On the first flight back we got a meal and drink. On Brajas airport I went to the lounge and had enough food and drinks for free. The last beer close to the airport in Venice was 6.5 €.

Sights

Dakar city, Goree island, Pink Lake, West point, Ziguinchor, St Louis, Banjul, crocdile farm, Bissau,

Fathala Wildlife Reserve – 50 €.

Weather

Weather was hot, 25 (Dakar) to 39 (south of Dakar) Celsius during the day and around 18 during the night. Humidity was from 55% to over 80%. There was some rain in Ljubljana.

Ljubljana, Venice, and Madrid were extra cold with temperatures in minus. If we didn’t want to carry most of the trip warm clothes it meant freezing in these places.

Budget

When I travel with Boštajn it is always on budget. To summarize all transport costs were 530 € (flight 330 €), accommodation 90 €, food/drinks around 120 €, misc 210 €(safari 50 €, vaccination 60 €, pills 80 €, cigarettes 7 €, souveniers 11 €, shave 0,75 €). That amounts to around 950 €.

Visa/Telecommunication/Vaccination

For Senegal, we didn’t need a visa as we needed it 15 years ago. For the Gambia, there was different information online, in the end, we got a transit visa for 72 hours without payment. A visa for Guinea Bissau could be obtained in Slovenia or in Senegal’s capital (Dakar). But it was a cheaper and easier process in Ziguinchor (40$ instead of 60$, didn’t need a photo or passport copy).

Most of the time we were in Senegal, so I bought a local SIM at the airport (25 GB, 9€, 1 month valid). In other countries, we used WiFi in accommodations and restaurants.

Vaccination for Yellow fewer is obligatory in these parts (Central Africa, South America). I got it a few weeks before the trip at NIJZ. I paid almost 60 € and got a yellow booklet for proof. I took also one shot for Hepatitis A/B, 3rd dose, again almost 60 €.

Also, there is a possibility of Malaria there. Even if it is dry season and even it is not 100% protection I bought Malarone anti-malaric pills, 2x 12 pills for 80 €. I started drinking one pill one day before the trip started, continued during the whole trip, and stopped after one week after my return. You should eat something before taking a pill. The best way is prevention, long sleeves after dark, strong repellent, …

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