Onam And Thrikkakara Vamana Moorthy Temple In Kochi

[]

= 1140 ) { /* large monitors */ var adEl = document.createElement(“ins”); placeAdEl.replaceWith(adEl); adEl.setAttribute(“class”, “adsbygoogle”); adEl.setAttribute(“style”, “display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px”); adEl.setAttribute(“data-ad-client”, “ca-pub-1854913374426376”); adEl.setAttribute(“data-ad-slot”, “8830185980”); (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); } });window.addEventListener(“load”, function(){ var placeAdEl = document.getElementById(“td-ad-placeholder”); if ( null !== placeAdEl && td_screen_width >= 1019 && td_screen_width = 768 && td_screen_width < 1019 ) { /* portrait tablets */ var adEl = document.createElement("ins"); placeAdEl.replaceWith(adEl); adEl.setAttribute("class", "adsbygoogle"); adEl.setAttribute("style", "display:inline-block;width:468px;height:60px"); adEl.setAttribute("data-ad-client", "ca-pub-1854913374426376"); adEl.setAttribute("data-ad-slot", "8830185980"); (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); } });window.addEventListener("load", function(){ var placeAdEl = document.getElementById("td-ad-placeholder"); if ( null !== placeAdEl && td_screen_width

I did not plan my visit to Thrikkakara Vamana Moorthy Temple in Kochi. I was there to witness the famous snake boat race, and what an experience it was to see those narrow boats cut through the water to the beat of drums playing on and around them. I learnt that boat races used to be a part of temple festivals. So, I decided to visit some temples in the city of Kochi on my last day of staying there.

Table of Contents

= 1140 ) { /* large monitors */ var adEl = document.createElement(“ins”); placeAdEl.replaceWith(adEl); adEl.setAttribute(“class”, “adsbygoogle”); adEl.setAttribute(“style”, “display:inline-block;width:360px;height:300px”); adEl.setAttribute(“data-ad-client”, “ca-pub-1854913374426376”); adEl.setAttribute(“data-ad-slot”, “7048430498”); (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); } });window.addEventListener(“load”, function(){ var placeAdEl = document.getElementById(“td-ad-placeholder”); if ( null !== placeAdEl && td_screen_width >= 1019 && td_screen_width = 768 && td_screen_width < 1019 ) { /* portrait tablets */ var adEl = document.createElement("ins"); placeAdEl.replaceWith(adEl); adEl.setAttribute("class", "adsbygoogle"); adEl.setAttribute("style", "display:inline-block;width:336px;height:280px"); adEl.setAttribute("data-ad-client", "ca-pub-1854913374426376"); adEl.setAttribute("data-ad-slot", "7048430498"); (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); } });window.addEventListener("load", function(){ var placeAdEl = document.getElementById("td-ad-placeholder"); if ( null !== placeAdEl && td_screen_width

Toggle

Kerala is home to many famous Vishnu temples, like the Padmanabhaswamy temple at Thiruvananthapuram and the equally famous Guruvayur temple. At Padmanabhaswamy temple, Vishnu is sleeping in the Ksheersagar peacefully as a lotus sprouts out of his navel. At Guruvayur, he is the four-armed Vishnu holding his four Ayudhas – Shankha or Conch, Sudarshan Chakra or disc, Kaumudiki Gada or mace, and Padma or lotus flower.

At Kochi, I would meet his Vamana avatara, whose story is so rooted in the land of Kerala. And, it is the only temple dedicated to him in Kerala.

Legend of Vamana Avatara

Legend goes that the Devatas lost their kingdom to the Asura King Mahabali. Being the grandson of Prahlada, an ardent devotee of Vishnu, he ruled righteously with kindness. His people loved him. But the Devatas wanted their kingdom back, and they requested Vishnu to help them out. Vishnu came in the form of Vamana, a dwarf Brahmin holding an umbrella, when Mahabali was performing a Yagna. After the Yagna, when it was time to receive the Dakshina, Vamana asked for land that he could cover with his three steps. Despite being warned by his Guru, Mahabali agreed.

This is when Vishnu took a giant form and covered the earth and Swarga with his two steps, and asked where to keep the third step. Mahabali offered his head, and he was sent to Rasatala – one of the netherworlds, to rule there. Sri Vamana Moorthy temple at Thrikkakara is believed to be standing at the exact spot where this happened.

However, Mahabali could return to meet his people once a year. This is how the festival of Onam was born. Yes, Onam is the celebration of Mahabali visiting his land once a year.

Sri Vamana Moorthy Temple at Thrikkakara

I was visiting just before Onam, and there could not have been a better place to feel the festivity than visiting the ancient temple dedicated to Vamana Avatar of Vishnu. This Vamana Moorthy temple at Thrikkakara is the epicentre of the Onam festival in Kerala. Temple records indicate at least 1200+ years of unbroken tradition of celebrating Onam. Yes, Onam is the biggest festival of this temple as well as the state of Kerala.

Thrikkakara Vamana Moorthy Temple in Kochi

Thrikkakara is believed to be the capital of King Mahabali. This was the very place from where he was sent to Rasatala when Vamana put his foot on his head. So, this is where his annual homecoming is celebrated the most.

Spread across 10 acres, I would always remember this temple as being more horizontal than vertical, unlike most other temples that have tall buildings. There are vast grounds around the temple where you can easily walk around and feel the spiritual aura of the space. The space lends a lot of peace and tranquillity, even when there are lots of people visiting the temple. One wonders if it indeed depicts the vastness of Mahabali’s heart.

The temple architecture is typical of Kerala temples with red slanting roofs and walls with wooden panels criss-crossing to create a grid-like impact. At the entrance, you see a tall deepa stambha in metal, which would look beautiful when it is lit at night.

Garbhagriha

In the garbhagriha of the main temple is a Murti of Vamana. It depicts him as he prepares to keep his foot on the head of Mahabali as his third step. The temple is believed to have been established by Parashurama, the sixth avatar of Vishnu, whose footprint can be seen across the Konkan coast. The story of Vamana avatar comes alive when you stand in front of this Murti, and of course, you can see it engraved on the walls of the temple. Kerala Tourism website tells me that these engravings are at least 2500 years old. Other than this there are vigrahas of Devi as Bhagavati, Sashtha – the son of Shiva and Vishnu as Mohini, Gopala Krishna, and Naga.

Kerala Temple Architecture at Thrikkakara Vamana Moorthy Temple in Kochi Typical Kerala Architecture

There is another temple dedicated to the Shiva family – Shiva, Durga, Ganesha, and Kartikeya. You can also see the Murti of Mahabali. Kapil Teertham, which is inaccessible to the public, refers to the visit of Kapil Muni here. As per one legend, it was he who requested the deity to be always present here. Another temple tank is used for rituals by devotees.

Naimisharanya

Within the compound, I was pleasantly surprised to see the recreation of Naimisharanya in the form of cultural spaces of the temple where performances take place. With vast open space and ample nature, I think Naimisharanya is the appropriate name, reminiscent of the sacred forest where thousands of rishis lived to pursue knowledge once upon a time.

There is an old Banyan tree, and close to it is the temple of Brahmarakshasa.

The wall of lamps that goes around the temples in Kerala is always intriguing. I have seen the lamps burning at a few temples, and they create such a raw energy around the temple. As if a wall of fire is protecting everyone present there.

Onam Celebrations

10-day Onam festival of the temple is celebrated in the Malayalam month of Chingam, or when the Sun is in Leo zodiac. At the temple, it is marked by the hoisting of the ceremonial flag. Every day, the deity is dressed as one of the 10 avatars of Vishnu. Throughout the 10 days, there are performances of dances, singing, poetry recitation, and musical performances like Panchvadyam.

The last two days of the festival see grand processions with temple elephants taking the deity around the temple complex, pausing at each of the four entrances.

The final two days also see the omnipresence of Onam Sadya – a grand feast of Kerala food on a Banana leaf that is now popular across the country. Thousands of people turn up from all walks of life to join in for this feast. If you happen to be in Kochi around Onam, do taste it.

This temple is so much a part of Onam that at all other places, the icons of Vamana and Maveli (Mahabali) are called Trikkakara-Appan, referring to the deity here.

108 Vishnu Temples

Vamanamoorthy temple is one of the 108 Vishnu temples mentioned as Divya Desams by the poet saints Alvars, making it highly sacred for the Vishnu devotees.

Athachamayam is a grand procession as part of the Onam celebrations. In the days of royal dynasties, people used to go from Thirupunithara to the Vamana Moorthy temple at Thirukakkara.

Days before Onam, you also see the eagerness with which Mahabali is awaited by the descendants of his kingdom to this day. Onam always reminds me that your kindness and generosity will always be remembered, even across eons and across generations.

Blissful Experience

Kerala temples are very clean and well-maintained. I loved walking around this temple, soaking in the divine aura and the festive vibes of Onam. The architecture never lets you forget you are in Kerala.