Pézenas is a historic town located in the Hérault region of southern France. It was just by chance that I ‘discovered’ this lovely town – during a road trip with my best friend, we decided to drop by in Pézenas for lunch after seeing it on a map. It turned out to be a serendipitous encounter, filled with wonder and delight. As we strolled around the medieval town centre, we were simply bewitched by the charming lanes and magnificent mansions. We ended up spending a good part of the day there soaking in the wonderful atmosphere. Here are my suggestions for things to do in Pezenas:

There’s an abundance of blue shutters in Pezenas.

Pézenas (map) can trace its history back to the Middle Ages. During the 16th-17th centuries, it became the seat of the Governors of Languedoc, which turned the town into an important administrative centre. During this time, the region’s wealthiest and most influential families settled in Pézenas, where they built lavish mansions (known as known as hôtels particuliers).

A quiet lane in Pezenas – I loved this shop!

The town is also famously associated with the playwright Molière, who found inspiration and support in Pézenas during his early career. The well-preserved old town is a tantalising maze of cobbled lanes and squares filled with ornate buildings and mansions that reflect its aristocratic heritage. It’s this heritage that makes Pezenas one of the most beautiful towns in Occitanie to visit. Here’s how to spend a day in Pézenas:

Wander around the old town

A stroll through the maze of lanes in the old town is like taking a step back in time. The stately architecture and abundance of artisanal shops make it a delight to explore. Key highlights include:

• Hôtel des Consuls – This grand 16th-century building showcases the town’s former political significance.
• Molière Monument – A tribute to the famed playwright, located near the heart of town.
• Rue de la Foire – A lively street filled with antique shops, art galleries and traditional craft stores.
• Collegiate Church of Saint-Jean – A striking 14th century church with a beautiful Romanesque interior.
• Museums – if you’d like to learn more about the town’s colourful history, I recommend visiting Musée de Vulliod Saint-Germain. For something a bit quirky, but absolutely fascinating, visit the Musée de la Porte (yes, a Door Museum!).

Hotel des Consuls Rue de la Foire leads to the Collegiate Church I loved the architecture! Place de la République

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Browse around the shops

During your walk, you’ll very quickly spot numerous artisanal shops and art galleries. From trinkets to local handicraft and beautiful antiques, there’s a lot to spark your interest. I especially loved how the shop owners decorate the lanes, inviting visitors to enter into historic houses filled with vaulted spaces and shady courtyards.

A charming lane filled with artisanal shops Need a hat? Inside one of the artisanal stores

Enjoy the local cuisine

There’s a plethora of cafés, bistros and restaurants in Pézenas that serve local specialties and wines. One of the town’s specialties is a sweet and savoury pastry called Petit Pâté de Pézenas. You’ll be (very) surprised to discover that this little cotton reel shaped pastry, often filled with minced meat and spices, was introduced to the town by the Indian cook of a visiting British nobleman in the 18th century!

La Ripaille

During my several visits to Pézenas (yes, I returned a few times after that first visit!), I had some terrific meals at Les Palmieres, La Ripaille, La Mamita and Chez Hansi. If you’re visiting during the busy summer months, I recommend booking a table in advance.

Wonderful food at Les Palmieres

Visit a nearby winery

One of my favourite things to do in Pezenas is visiting a nearby winery for a wine-tasting and/or meal. Pézenas is surrounded by some of the finest vineyards in the Languedoc region, known for their robust reds and elegant whites. During my numerous trips to the area, I always made it a point to drop in at one of the nearby wineries. My favourite winery is Seigneurie de Peyrat, just outside the town.

The shady courtyard of Seigneurie de Peyrat

I loved touring the estate and indulging in the wonderful Pique-nique Chic, a wine-tasting accompanied by local breads, cheeses, meat and jams. It’s an absolutely delightful experience! I recommend calling the winery beforehand to book a spot.

Pique-nique Chic wine-tasting and local food Seigneurie de Peyrat chapel frescoes

Other nearby wineries I’ve been to include Domaine Saint Hilaire, a gorgeous estate offering tastings and guided tours, and Domaine de Nizas, known for its high-quality Syrah and Grenache blends.

If you’re touring the South of France, visiting nearby cities like Béziers or Montpellier, or spending your holidays at the coast, I recommend going on a day trip to Pézenas. It’s an absolutely delightful town, with a great mix of historic, gastronomic and cultural attractions. You can opt to spend a night in Pezenas or in the surrounding area, which is absolutely beautiful.

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