We discovered Bang Rak over a decade ago. It was a bit rundown and completely under the radar. Today, the neighborhood is slowly changing and attracting more visitors. However, very few know what to see and what to do.
In this itinerary we will take you along our favorite street in Bangkok’s Bang Rak: Charoen Krung Road. The drag has it all: history, culture, restaurants, shops, local residents, views, and the most authentic vibe in the city. We are sure you will have a great time!
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Brief History
Bangkok became the kingdom’s capital by the turn of the 18th Century. Bang Rak was outside of the city walls and attracted people from different communities, including Malays, Vietnamese, Europeans and Chinese.
In the 19th Century, European countries established their embassies and companies in the area. Bang Rak soon became one of the busiest and most important quarters in the city. Things slowly declined until this century.
Today, the neighborhood is as fascinating as ever. There are uber-luxurious hotels, shops, and restaurants, street vendors, cheap eateries, local residents, and art. We love it because it’s still very authentic.
Wat Suan Phlu
Begin your walk at Saphan Taksin. The bridge over the Chao Pray River offers amazing views. The Skytrain station with the same name and the boat pier Sathorn are here. From there walk along Charoen Krung Road. You will see commercial buildings from the beginning of the 20th Century.
Once you pass the Shangri La Hotel, enter Soi 42 to visit Wat Suan Phlu. The temple complex was built during the Ayutthaya period. You will immediately recognize it due to its unique pastel colors. The temple is one of the few in the city that still has the original wooden kuti, monk’s quarters. Take your time and enjoy the peace and quiet.
Assumption Cathedral
Walk a bit back to Charoen Krug and then continue to Soi 40. You will see the Assumption Cathedral. The French built the original temple in 1821. It became, and still is, the main church of Bangkok’s Archdiocese.
However, the temple was completely rebuilt in the 1910s. It suffered tremendously during the Allied bombing of Bangkok in 1942. It was fully restored in the 1980s and 1990s. The exterior is pretty simple, but the interior is as rococo as it gets.
Masjid Haroon
A short walk from the Cathedral takes you to Soi 38. We are talking about the one parallel to Charoen Krung Road, not the one that’s perpendicular. Walk along the street until you see many wooden houses. You are now in the Muslim quarter.
Indonesian migrants established the settlement in the early 19th Century. They built Masjid Haroon on the river front. It is one of the oldest mosques in Thailand. The mosque was later moved to its current location to make room for the customs house. We love taking our time and petting the many cats that linger around.
General Post Office
We are taking you now to one of our favorite buildings in the city: the General Post Office. The massive building is next to Soi 34 on Charoen Krug Road. No worries, there’s no way you won’t see it.
Two of Thailand’s best architects designed the building: Sarot Sukkhayang and Mew Aphaiwong. It’s an art deco and international style building. Opened in 1940, it hosted the post office until it got converted into the Thailand Creative & Design Center. The center is dedicated to Thai identity, art, and creativity.
Charoen Krung 32 Street Art
We believe that Charoen Krung has the most and best graffiti in Bangkok. You will see big and small works scattered all around the neighborhood. In particular around Soi 32, just a few steps from the Post Office.
One of our favorite pieces is by Vhils. The Portuguese artist carved his intricate design into the wall of the Portuguese Embassy! Another must see is the huge mural at the entrance of Soi 30. Italian world famous artists Stan & Lex did the iconic stencil that covers an entire building.
Warehouse 30
Warehouse 30 is next to the Stan & Lex wall. We are talking authentic wooden warehouses built in the 1940s and 6 new structures. They host some of the best art galleries and shops in Bangkok.
The old warehouses are the original ones, but with modern day conveniences. Be sure to check what’s going on when you visit. The Warehouse hosts all types of arts exhibits. There’s also a coffee house where you can grab a bite and rest.
Kiat Nakin Building
Walk north out of the Warehouse and turn right on Soi 30. You will see Bangkok’s oldest skyscraper, the Kiat Nakin Building. The building opened in 1972 as headquarters of the Kiat Naking Finance and Securities Company.
The building is interesting because it resembles the Torre Velasca in Milan. To be honest, we like this one better. The Italian one is way too big for our taste.
ATT 19
Cross the street and look for the ATT 19 sign, which is almost in front of the Kiat Nakin Building. Go inside the plant lined entrance and prepare to be dazzled. The art gallery occupies the former Arthorn Suksa, a 120 year old Chinese School.
The place is a master-class on renovating while keeping the original intact. You can see the original teak walls! The space is gorgeous and hosts art exhibits, shops, galleries, a restaurant and a bar.
House No. 1
The area behind the Sheraton Royal Orchid Hotel used to home a Buddhist Temple. As the city grew, the temple was moved out and the area redeveloped. In the 1910s new houses and compounds where built to host European companies.
The only one that has survived to this day is House No. 1. The French built the mansion as the offices of the French Society of Indochine Distilleries. It fell into oblivion until the government restored it to its former glory in 2016.
Nai Lert’s Building
After visiting the house, continue north until you reach the Si Phraya Road. Turn right and then left on Charoen Krung main road. Walk north until you reach the Soi 26. Nai Lert’s Building is there.
Nair Lert was one of Thailand’s most important business men. He built Thailand’s first ice factory on Charoen Krung Road. In 1927 he opened the city’s tallest commercial building where he sold cars and bicycles.
Where to Stay in the Neighborhood
The best place to stay in Charoen Krung, and in all of Bangkok, is the Shangri La Hotel. The super luxurious hotel sits directly on the Chao Praya River. Its river front is the longest of any hotel in the city. We strongly recommend booking a room with a balcony. You will enjoy unparalleled comfort with the best views in the city.
Considering its class and location, the Centre Point Plus is great value for money. The hotel is next to the Shangri La. It’s been recently upgraded and it looks fabulous. All of the units come with a fully equipped kitchen and are huge.
Both hotels are next to the BTS, so you can reach the entire city in no time. Besides, the Sathorn pier under the bridge is a short walk away. Boats from there take you to most of Bangkok’s attractions. The Shangri La has its own boat!
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