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Kashi has many yatras like Nava Durga Yatra, Nava Gauri Yatra that are mentioned in the Kashi Khanda of Skanda Purana. This time when I was staying for a longer duration in Kashi, I joined the Kashi Pradakshina darshan yatra samiti for couple of Yatras. First of these was the Ashta Bhairava Yatra that goes around the 8 Bhairava temples.

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It is a joy to walk with the Kashi Vasis or the residents of Varanasi and some pilgrims to go on these Yatras. We were about 50 of us walking the length and breadth of sacred Varanasi.

Legend of Ashta Bhiarava in Kashi

Legend goes that Devi took the form of Durga to kill Durgasura. After killing the asura, she created nine shaktis known as Nava Durgas that occupies different directions in the city of Kashi to protect it. At the same time, she created 8 Bhairavas who would also spread themselves in 8 spaces in the sacred city of Kashi to protect its people and pilgrims.

Map of Kashi Ashta Bhairava Yatra

These eight or Ashta Bhairava temples are now located across the city in different temples. Incidentally the famous temples of Bhairava like Kaal Bhairav, Laat Bhairava and Batuk Bhairava are not a part of these 8 or Ashta Bhairava temples of Varanasi. Having said that, you would go very close to both these famous Bharava temples during this yatra. Deities in Varanasi are never far from each other.

Why go on Ashta Bharaiva Yatra?

Bhairavas, a manifestation of Shiva himself, are protective deities and they give you protection from all kinds of fears. A person without fear and step ahead and achieve anything.

To give you Abhaya, or freedom from fear, they also take away your accumulated Papas.

We usually find a Bhairava associated with every prominent Devi temple.

You may carry Akshat, flowers, fragrance, and sweets to offer at these temples.

Ashta Bhairava Yatra of Kashi

I will narrate this yatra in the order in which we did it.

1. Chand Bhairava (चंड भैरव) – Durga Mandir Durga Kund

Durga Mandir located next to Durga Kund in the locality known by the same name. Built in bright red color this is a very famous temple also a part of the Nava Durga Yatra. Devi here represents Kushmanda form of Durga. The temple also has a small Kali temple on the side.

Chand Bhairava in Durga Kund Temple, next to Kali Mandir

It is next to the Murti of Ma Kali that you see a small Murti of Chand Bhairava in black stone. You will see two Bhairava Murtis here, wrapped in black cloth. The smaller one is the Chand Bhairava that we are visiting as part of this yatra.

We started with a Sankalpa to do this yatra, seeking the blessings to complete it.

This temple is easy to reach, as it is a city landmark.

2. Ruru Bhairav (रुरु भैरव) – Karnataka Ghat close to Harishchandra Ghat

From Durga temple, we walked towards Hanuman ghat, passing by the famous Baba Kinaram Ashram. Our first stop was Narsingeshwar Temple, which also houses the Anand Bhairava and Rur Bhairava Murtis. You can easily locate it on Google Maps.

On Karnataka Ghat for Ruru Bhairava

Then, we proceeded towards Karnataka Ghat. This is small temple in blue is located right outside the Karnataka ghat. Harishchandra ghat is the more famous ghat close to it.

I could see a Murti in black stone wearing the fresh marigold flowers, riding a dog. There were smaller Murtis behind it but it was difficult to see them.

We folded our hands, said our prayers to both Ruru Bhairav and Ma Ganga before posing for a group photo here.

3. Krodhan Bhairav (क्रोधन भैरव) – Kamakhya Temple, Kamachha

It was a long walk from ghats of Ganga to Kamakhya temple in the Kamaccha area of Varanasi. We passed by a wing of BHU which is outside the main campus. It was going into another side of Varanasi.

Krodhan Bhairava next to Ma Kamakhya

Kamakhya temple is a beautiful temple dedicated to Kamakhya Ma. It also has a huge Sri Chakra in a temple of its own. You cannot really see the Sri Chakra as it is covered with cloth but you can still feel its contours. Another small temple belongs to Pratyingra Devi.

Krodhan Bhairava is located on the side wall of Kamakhya temple. You need to go to one side and peep inside to get a glimpse of it. It is also known as Adi Bhairav. You can see Grishneshwar Mahadev, which is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas in the same complex.

Only those who consciously come to visit this temple would really get to see him. Most casual visitors will tend to miss it.

4. Unmat Bhairava (उन्मत भैरव) – Batuk Bhairav Temple, Kamachha

Batuk Bhairava literally means a baby Bhairava and this temple is quite popular. As part of HRIDAY project, a corridor leading to this temple has been built with sculptures on the walls and a board telling you about the temple. This is the only place where I saw a lot of beggars in Kashi.

Unmat Bhairava next to Batuk Bhairava

The small temple is very beautifully decorated. You see the face of Batuk Bhairav and the two dogs on his either side. You see another small Murti, this is Unmat Bhairava that we visit on this Ashta Bhairava Yatra. There is a lovely Panchmukhi Hanuman Murti in this temple.

Another Unmat Bhairav temple is in Deora village on the Panch Kroshi Marg which is about 15-16 kms away. We did not visit this temple, instead the one at Batuk Bhairav temple.

5. Bheeshan Bairav (भीषण भैरव) – Kashipura

I missed visiting this temple as I was lost on the roads and lost contact with the group. You can easily locate this on Google maps close to Maheshwari Dharmashala, not too far from Maidagin chauraha. It is also close to Jyeshteshwar temple that I had visited during my earlier explorations of Kashi.

6. Asitang Bhairava (असितांग भैरव) – MahaMritunjaya Temple

Mahamriunjaya temple is very famous close to Maidagin chauraha. It is a temple complex that contains many Shiva temples. The Dhanavantari Koop here is equally famous for its medicinal properties. You can see people coming and drinking its water to stay healthy.

On the right side of this well, there is a small temple dedicated to Asitang Bhairav.

Dhanvantari Koop in Mrituanjaya Mahadev Temple

Here Sh. Umashankar Gupta ji asked us to sit in a courtyard. We exchanged notes and noted our names in the Yatra register. Those who had brought prasad, distributed the same.

You can see Mahakalesh and Mahamritunjaya temple in this temple complex which is big once you step inside. Technically this falls in Kriti Vasa kshetra which is so sacred that any prayer or sadhana that you do here gives you multifold benefits.

7. Kapal Bhairav (कपाल भैरव) aka Laat Bhiarav (लाट भैरव) – Alaipur

I was tired by the time we reached Ashtang Bhairav and it was getting too late for me to return to BHU. So, I left the yatra after Asitang Bhairav. Kapal Bhairav is most popularly known as Laat Bhairav. It falls on the North Eastern outskirts of Kashi.

Laat Bhairava Temple

This is also the place where Kapal Mochan Tirtha or tank is located. It is believed that Shiva got rid of Brahm’s head stuck on his hand here in this pond.

8. Samhar Bhairava (संहार भैरव) – Gai Ghat, Patan Darwaza

You can approach this temple either from Machhodari or from the steps of Gai ghat.  As the name suggests, this Bhairav baba annihilates all your accumulated papas. In this Yatra, he is visited towards the end, you make sure that you leave the yatra lighter.

9. Kaal Bhairava (काल भैरव)

Kaal Bhairav is technically not a part of this yatra as he is a part of Rudra Yatra. However, since he is the Kotwal of Kashi, the yatra is finished by praying to him. His blessings are sought before and after doing anything in Kashi, so why not visit him on this yatra too.

How to do Ashta Bhairava Yatra?

You can always do this Yatra with Kashi Pradakshina Samiti as and when they do it in their annual calendar. They take you to authentic temples and show you the tiniest Murtis that are relevant for the yatra. It is a pure joy to walk with the people of Kashi, singing the Shiva Stutis and listening to the anecdotes when you sit at some temple for register writing. Yatra is basic and simple.

Anuradha Goyal with Sh. Umashankar Gupta ji

The downside is that it involves long walks through crowded streets and narrow gullies. Sometimes you may find it difficult to keep pace with people who know the city like back of their hands. They also stop at temples for the minimum time, so just get a glimpse and not get enough time to feel the temple. It is probably not possible with large groups.

The temples of Ashta Bhairava can easily be located on Google Maps. You can do it yourself, but it involves long walks through the city.

Jai Ashta Bhairav Baba.

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